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Name: Jason Hughes
Hometown: Southern Utah (I claim more than just one town.)
Major: General Studies
Followed: Outdoor Engagement track. 

Denali Expedition

Residing within the heart of Alaska there is a group of mountains making up the Denali mountain range. They are majestic, beautiful, and dangerous mountains that inspire all who view them. The giant, is Denali peak. Standing at 20,310’ it calls to the hearts of the brave everywhere. My EDGE project was to dare this bold mountain.

I lead a team of 6 climbers on a training trip up Denali. We improved our ability to operate in the alpine environment, gained a better understanding of our personal physiology at altitude and we learned, every day we learned. Five of our team made it to high camp at 17,200’ and myself and one other team mate made it to the summit.

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Since 2015 when my team and I got turned around near high camp, I have looked on from town at that great mountain peak of Denali. I have been driven and inspired ever since. I leaped at the opportunity to attempt the summit when it came up at work and began making the necessary preparations. The EDGE project and the outdoor engagement track helped me be more organized and focuses as I attempted this great undertaking.

Many difficulties arose as  for the trip drew nearer and we began the climb. We went through several team modifications before our team was finalized. We faced sickness on the mountain that ended the trip for one of our climbers as well as altitude related insomnia that kept others from the summit. Weather and our own exhaustion placed our team in some sticky situations.

 

As future rescue assets in the Denali mountain range and around the world, our team was safely exposed to mountaineering and countless training opportunities were taken advantage of while in the mountain environment to help the younger mountaineers gain the experience that they need. The team lived and learn the keys to survival. Having the opportunity as a young PJ to travel on this mountain and to become confident amid the dangers is something that they will use and cherish for the rest of their careers.

 

Some of the biggest lessons I learned had to do with teamwork.

  • Nothing can replace knowing your team. A strong working relationship with those that you are traveling with can save your life. Knowing when they are out of it, or when they can push further or faster. Knowing their skiing, climbing, temperature and weather comfort levels can not only make or break the trip, but also be the deciding factor in the decision to take someone off the mountain or not.

  • It is important to create an environment where your team mates make their own good decisions. You will be able to trust them if you are all on the same page when it comes to the safety of the team.

  • High altitude exposure is essential prior to attempting rescues in that environment, everyone reacts differently and you need to be aware of your individual reactions and how they will affect your ability to accomplish the mission.

  • You don’t have to know everything to lead, you must know whose judgment you can trust and who can get the job done.

 

I will be there first to say, people change on the mountain. I lost some weight, got stronger and maybe a bit harder but the biggest and best changes were spiritual, mental and emotional. When you are pushed to your physical limits the mental and emotional sides step up to force you through, to keep you safe. When you are mentally done, and can’t imagine moving any further, you realize your spiritual strength. What is the greatest way my project benefited me? By enabling me to better know myself.

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From my journal:         

Pretty good start today. It was a long slow day though. We had whiteout flat light conditions and we moved from wand to wand. Some of the wands were down and we used general directions to move through the glacier. We couldn’t see much of anything all day long. Sonny is hurting again, I ended up taking most everything out of his sled to get us into camp.

           

Sonny couldn’t get warm, as soon as the tent was up we got him in his bag and got him a boiler (boiling water in a Nalgene lid on tight, the thing will put off a lot of heat for a few hours. It heats up a sleeping bag nicely) and some hot food.  Cam isn’t sleeping well but Ty feels a lot better (allergies wearing off).

            *Always have wands with the team.

            *Thin Mint Oreos are amazing at Altitude.

            *Sleeping with all your gear in the bag is miserable.

                                                                                   -Thursday May 24th (Day 4)-

 

Never forget to stop and look at the mountains. You get caught up with moving to the next camp or getting food and getting to bed that you miss the sun sets, the beauty in the stillness and vastness of the mountain. It’s a good life lesson, there will always be the next hill to climb, the next class to pass, the next promotion. The trip is too short to miss what is right in front of you NOW.

                                                                                              -Post Trip Reflections-

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